Au Somaliland, des musulmans qui aiment Israël
"I love Israel." The expression, almost incongruous in the Muslim world, regularly resonates in Somaliland, less than two months after the Israeli government recognized the independence of this self-proclaimed republic which seceded from Somalia in 1991.
Young and old, men and women... in this land of Islam where Ramadan has just started, almost all of them emphasize the injustice they believe has been rectified by Israel, the first country in the world to legitimize the existence of their country.
Rather than repeating the accusations of war crimes or genocide against Palestinians denounced by many human rights defenders and a large part of the Arab world, they insist on the abuses committed by Somalia against their people during a decade of war of independence (1982-1991).
These crimes are all the more unforgivable for them because Somaliland, a former British protectorate, had voluntarily chosen to join Somalia, a former Italian colony, in 1960... five days after being recognized as an independent state by 35 countries, including, already, Israel.
In a central square of the capital Hargeisa, the carcass of an old Somali MIG sits atop a memorial monument.
The fighter jet, as part of a Somali squadron, had contributed to "killing thousands of citizens" of this city in 1988, according to two signs hung below, accompanied by photos of gutted buildings.
Hargeisa was then 70% destroyed by bombings carried out by the regular army of Somali President Siad Barre, which had brutally suppressed (at least 35,000 dead) a northern rebellion. Three years later, this rebellion finally achieved autonomy for Somaliland.
"We have been waiting for (international) recognition for 35 years. This is the product of the struggles of our grandparents," says Ahmed Abiib Ibrahim, a 20-year-old student, from this place which he considers "historic" in the Somaliland capital.
"Thank you, thank you, thank you Israel," says 16-year-old Selma Beddel, as she crosses the square.
Both claim they will experience a holy month "different" from all previous ones. "This is the first Ramadan we are experiencing as a country recognized as independent," boasts Ahmed Abiib Ibrahim.
A sentiment echoed almost verbatim by Muna Ali, who was ending her day at a nearby travel agency. "I love Israel so much," smiled the 22-year-old, whose body and hair were covered by a black abaya.
"God loves the people of Israel!", exclaims Abdilrashiid Adam Jamac, the truck driver encountered by AFP as he fills his water tank a few dozen kilometers from Hargeisa, where the precious resource is scarce.
"The Jews are my brothers. Do the Muslims help us? No!" he adds. "I will think of Israel during Ramadan," assures the driver, who claims to have hung an Israeli flag on the walls of his home.
Shortly after Somaliland was recognized in late December, social media showed residents proudly displaying the Israeli flag, with one woman even using it as a hijab.
Somali President Hassan Sheikh Mohamud, on the other hand, denounced "the greatest violation against Somalia's sovereignty," accusing Israel of wanting to "transfer its wars from the Middle East to Somalia."
Mogadishu still considers it to be in control of Somaliland, although it has operated autonomously for decades, with its own currency, administration, army and police.
Somaliland also stands out for its relative stability compared to Somalia, which is plagued by the Islamist insurgency of al-Shabaab and chronic political conflicts.
No Muslim country has yet followed Israel's lead, with most of them insisting instead on the imperative respect for Somalia's territorial integrity.
"Israel's recognition of Somaliland benefits neither Somaliland nor the Horn of Africa," Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan said Tuesday from Ethiopia.
This region, positioned between the Indian Ocean and the Suez Canal, on one of the world's busiest trade routes, has in recent years become a battleground by proxy between Gulf petro-monarchies.
In early February, Saudi Arabia, whose relations with the United Arab Emirates are extremely tumultuous, signed a military agreement with Somalia.
Many experts claim that Abu Dhabi, which is close to Israel, is behind the Israeli government's recognition of Somaliland.
Although rarely mentioned at first, the Palestinian question is not ignored by the Somalilanders. Last Ramadan, they raised $2 million for this cause, recalls a government official, speaking on condition of anonymity.
But Somaliland must think of itself first and foremost, he asserts. "We feel sorry for the Palestinians, but (...) there are our brothers in Somalia who want to kill us."
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